Napoli

The last touristy thing we did in Rome was to see the Fountains of Trevi. When I was much younger (still at primary school kind of younger) I saw these fountains in a video or a picture. Being horse mad at the time, I fell utterly in love with them and vowed that one day I would see them in the flesh. So even though the blisters (yes, they have multiplied) squeaked in complaint, they were prodded into action.

The fountains were all that I had hoped for. They are definitely my favourite sculptures in Rome. I could wax lyrical about them being a breath taking symphony of marble, exploding outwards in a stunning display of energy and vitality, but I won’t, because I could easily start to feel a tad foolish. So here’s a picture instead:




I took a couple of photographs, threw the requisite three coins and bumped into a number of old ladies. Given its small size, the Trevi piazza is, inch for inch, even more crowded with tourists than St Peters.




The blisters were then force-marched from the fountains to the Termini station. They twinged. The tendon strain (from walking funny to compensate for the first blister) ached. The shoulders hurt under the weight of the full pack. The tummy growled. By that stage it was 11:30 and all I had had to eat was a banana. I was pretty much running on empty. I get grumpy when I’m hungry. Lucky N…..

At Termini I paid R10 to pee. I find it extremely annoying - this European habit of making you pay to use the toilets. Quite a cheek, given that I had just paid R130 for a train ticket to Naples. Surely the railways could sponsor me a piddle?

After a scenically rather boring train ride, we arrived at Naples. N asked if I thought I could manage the 3km walk to the Welcome Inn. I thought it looked more like 1.5 km and so I told the blisters to just suck it up – I need to save my Euros. We set off on foot. I said we should plot an exact course on the main roads. N said that was unnecessary and we should just meander in the general direction. Much against my better judgement, we commenced the meander. We meandered straight into the slums of Naples. Ok, maybe they’re not quite slums as we know them, but I was NOT happy about being there. Particularly since we were clutching maps, looking lost, and arguing on each street corner about which way was best. Tourist speak for “Rob me please!”

The meander turned our 1.5km route into a 2.something km route but we arrived at the Welcome Inn delightfully unmugged. What a nice little spot! We are both well cuffed with having found it. It is clean, cheerful and eponymously welcoming. We are not in the dorms here. We fancied a bit of privacy and thought our advanced age might set us apart from the backpacking crowd. So we booked ourselves and our walkers into a double room. It is bright and cozy. We each received soap, shampoo and a dental pack (tooth paste, tooth brush and a little plastic toothbrush protector!) The only snag we have come across so far is that the double bed is two single beds pushed together. Any time either of us attempts to cuddle up to the other, one of us falls into the crack between the mattresses. Don’t worry Mum, there is little chance of illicit pre-marital nookie at the Welcome Inn!

After an all too short nap, we went for a hobble to familiarize ourselves with the Napoli neighbourhood. We procured ourselves an internet sim card, some airtime, some cheap cooldrink and some cheap Polish chocolate. I have become an inveterate bargain hunter. 1.5 litres of fizzy orange drink and a slab of choccie for less than R15. It’s not going to be much cheaper in SA! Although the chocolate does taste faintly odd….

This Tourist’s impressions of Roma:
Super expensive on the Rand. Spacious. Well laid out, light and bright streets. Organised. Polite traffic. Safe. Clean. Men are usually immaculately groomed and often dress in suits. Many women are hot with good figures and dress immaculately. Sophisticated.

This Tourist’s impressions of Napoli:
Expensive on the Rand. Cramped. Twisty, dark and dank streets. Traffic is crazy, manic and full of lunatics – children drive scooters everywhere. Chaotic. Pick pocket haven. Dirty. Men are clad in overly tight pants, hair gel and some sport incredibly ornate blinged up, sparkly crucifixes. Women have a uniform of tight pants and overly tight t-shirts, into which they cram a jiggly tummy. They wear a lot of rouge and a lot of eye shadow. Street smart.

Oh yes. On our way out of the hostel to go for our hobble, we asked the guy at the reception desk to point out any areas that are potentially unsafe to walk through. “No, no, you’ll be FINE!” he said, “Unless you go to these areas in the night.” And then he marked out on our map the street we walked down when we left the station, and the slums we wandered through on our meander. Good thing I grew up in Joburg. I must look super tough or something.

Napoli Recommendations: The Welcome Inn – to be found at 3 Via Broggia.
Addition to Roma Recommendations: Trevi Fountains. Must do!